Twist Patterned Bracelet
Mokume gane project
by Steve Midgett

Steve Midgett is featured in “18 Layers of Color,” on page 20 of the March 2002 LJ.

This project shows how to make a simple yet elegant bangle bracelet using the patterned metal called mokume gane (pronounced moe’-koo-may gah’-nay), created using an ancient Japanese metalsmithing technique. Whether you make your own mokume stock, or buy what’s commercially available, this simple technique fully exploits the potential of mokume gane. I have used 18K yellow gold and shakudo mokume gane for this demonstration, but just about any mokume stock can be patterned in this way.

I have prepared billets available to make this project. They are made from copper and silver and come already shaped and ready for use. If you choose to use this prepared stock, you can move to twisting the wire in Step 4.

Begin with a mokume billet piece that has a square cross section, and gently hammer the sharp corners so they more closely match the beveled shape of a square wire rolling mill.
Before going on to the next step, file or grind off any folded layers that may have developed at the corners during this process.

* * * *

Carefully solder a thin layer of 18K hard solder on the ends and edges of the billet. Use a solder pick to spread the solder so that all of the layers in the billet are covered. This will greatly reduce the stress on the metal when rolling and subsequent chance of delamination.

* * * *

Reduce the billet by rolling to a 6mm square rod. Make sure you anneal the rod each time you reduce its diameter by a millimeter or so; quench at a dull red heat in cold pickle. Cut off about a 6-1/2" section for the next step.

* * * *

Clamp the ends of the rod in a vise, and apply a generous coat of paste flux. Hold the other end of the rod in vise grips and begin twisting while heating the metal. For gold and copper alloys, this is done at a dull red heat, silver is twisted at a temperature just below visible red heat. You can control where and how much the rod twists by the way you apply heat with the torch. If you notice any delamination, stop twisting and gently reflow the solder that already coats the sides of the rod. Quench in pickle once you have achieved the desired twist.

* * * *

Grind or file off the excess solder on the edges of the twisted rod. I like to use an abrasive separating disc for this. As you grind, angle the disc so its contour matches the concave shape of the wire. This allows you to remove the solder smoothly without removing an excessive amount of the patterned metal underneath. You may also use a round or half round file for this purpose.

* * * *

Roll the rod to a solid-square wire about 5 mm in diameter. Watch for any corners that may fold over during rolling and grind these away before rolling to the final dimension.

* * * *

To expose the pattern, which will be on the outside of the bracelet, mark the centerline of the wire and carefully saw the wire in half lengthwise. (If you wish to make a half round bracelet, saw the wire on the diagonal instead of on the flat.) File and or forge the pieces to an even thickness, removing any obvious bumps left from sawing. Set one half aside for later and continue in the next step with the other half.

* * * *

Gently roll this piece to a perfect rectangular (or half round) wire about 9" long. As you do this check the back side of the wire and remove any excess solder that remains, which may obscure the pattern on what will be the inside of the bracelet. Roll carefully and correct any warping or irregular bending that may occur during rolling.

* * * *

Use a plastic mallet and a raising stake or bracelet mandrel to form the bracelet. The ends should overlap each other by about 1". This inch (depending on the size of the bracelet) is removed in the next step to make the bracelet the correct size and provides extra material to use for adjusting how the pattern will match up at the joint.

* * * *

For a seamless-looking design, cut through the middle of two of the “stars” that make up this pattern and solder the bracelet together at this point.

I like to saw the ends off with a jewelers saw and then use a separating disk to cut the joint perfectly parallel and true.

* * * *

Adjust the ends so that they meet perfectly, using spring tension in the bracelet to hold the ends firmly together. Then, flux well, and solder with hard solder.

* * * *

Finish the joint by removing any excess solder, then carefully form the bracelet to a perfect circle. File and sand to a smooth finish and then acid-etch to create a light texture on the bracelet.

Optional: To achieve the finish of the bracelet as shown, glass-bead-blast, then patina in a solution of warm household ammonia and table salt to bring out the rich color of the shakudo.

* * * * * * * * * *

Steve Midgett is internationally recognized as a leading authority on the subject of mokume gane. This project has been adapted from his book Mokume Gane: A Comprehensive Study. To contact him regarding his work, or the prepared stock available to make this project, you can reach him at 800-374-6423 or at www.mokume.com.

Try your skills with more metalworking projects here!

________________________________________________________________

Feature Stories & Artist Profiles | Step-by-Step Projects & Workshops | Technique Articles | Business Articles | New Products | News, Conferences, & Deadlines | Take our Reader Survey

Articles & Workshops | Bead Fest | Jewelry Classes | Show Calendar | Search for Products & Suppliers | Classified Ad Deals | Advertising Rates & Information | Media Reviews | Store - Books & Back Issues | Contact Us | Links | Site Map