|  Cutting
the PVC pipe into appropriate lengths
 Mark
off the lengths you need on the pipe. The file handles should protrude from the
front end of the pipe about 1-1/2" to 2". Use a fairly heavy blade in
your saw frame, a #2 or #3, but not too thick, because the teeth on a blade that
is too thick will catch instead of cut through the pipe. PVC pipe is relatively
soft and easily cut. Brace the pipe across your bench so that you can firmly hold
the pipe while cutting it. You might want to put a wastebasket underneath the
cutting area so you don’t get plastic bits in with your metal filings. (If
you have access to a band saw or other power cutter, the cutting will go faster.
But be sure you know how to use power tools safely, or ask someone who does to
help you.)
| 4" needle files, with handles, measure a total of 5-1/2",
cut the 3/4" inside diameter pipe into 4" long sections; 5-1/4"
needle files with handles, are about 7-1/2" long, and require 6" lengths
of 3/4" inside diameter pipe. For large 6" files, use 8" long sections
of the 1" inside diameter pipe |
 Sanding
the ends of the pipe sections
Once you have all the sections cut, sand both ends of the sections to get rid
of any “crumbs” or burs of plastic. An easy way to do this is to put
a full sheet of abrasive paper, 320-grit, on a hard and flat surface, and then
just grind the pipe ends down until they are smooth.
(Again, a power sander will work more quickly, but obey safety guidelines.)
It won’t hurt if you also run the abrasive paper lightly over the surface
of the pipe sections, as this will help the cement adhere better.
 Cleaning
the pipe sections
The PVC pipe will probably have some grease or dirt on it, and this can prevent
the cement from adhering to the pipe. You can use a commercial PVC cleaning solution,
but denatured alcohol or a good degreasing detergent will also work. Whatever
method you use, be sure to do it only in a well-ventilated area, as the fumes
from both the cleaner and the alcohol are not only toxic, but highly flammable
as well. Decide how many rows across and columns down of pipe sections you are
going to cement together. Since files usually come in sets of either 6 or 12,
having 6 pipes in a row will organize the same cuts or sizes of files evenly.
 Cementing
the pipe sections together
First, put down several layers of newspaper on your bench top or table, to prevent
damage to the surface. Line up the pipe sections for the first row, and use the
dauber attached to the lid of the cement can to apply a line of cement where the
sections will touch. If the pipe sections want to roll, use small blocks of wood
or metal to keep them lined up and touching each other. Repeat for each row that
you want to add. You will have only about 15 minutes of working time; so get everything
together before you start. (Use this PVC cement only in a well-ventilated area.
It contains some very strong solvents.) Let all the rows of pipes set for at least
1/2 hour before handling them.
When the cement has set, again apply cement in a thin line where each row will
rest on top of the one below, and stack them up. A vertical brace, like a bookend
or brick, should be used on both sides, because the rows of pipe will tend to
slide into a honeycomb, or offset, pattern, and you want them directly one on
top of another. This arrangement will allow more room for your fingers to pull
the files out.
If you want to stack different size files in one file file, and need different
lengths of pipe, align the fronts together, or it will be difficult to get the
shorter files out. (You will need to cut a separate, smaller section of acrylic
backing for the shorter lengths of pipe; instructions for cutting the acrylic
are in Step 5). Let your stacked pipes set for about an hour before handling.
Measure the back side to determine what size acrylic sheet to cut for a backing.
 Cutting
acrylic sheet for backing
 Using
your jeweler’s saw frame and a #2 blade, cut the size you need for a backing
out of the acrylic sheet. This works very much like cutting a sheet of metal or
thin wood. If the throat of your saw frame is not deep enough to go all the way
through the sheet, stop halfway and reverse the sheet to start in from the opposite
side. You can also use an acrylic sheet cutter, which works much like a glass
cutter, but I found that the edges tend to be a bit ragged. If you have access
to a band saw, table saw or other power cutter, this will be an easy step. But
beware of safety considerations, and know how to use these power tools. Also,
be sure to use a blade meant for plastics; a blade made for wood may tear the
acrylic badly or melt it.
If you buy your acrylic sheet at a plastics store, for a small fee you can
have the staff cut it to size if you know what dimensions you are going to need.
You can file or sand the edges of the acrylic sheet if it is ragged, but don’t
take so much material off that the tip of a file can poke through. Once your sheet
is ready, clean it as you did your PVC pipe sections.
 Cementing
the acrylic backing on
Place the acrylic sheet flat on your newspaper-covered bench or table. Apply the
cement to the back side of the pipe stack, then position it on the acrylic sheet.
If you need to cement a smaller sheet on for shorter pipe lengths, do so after
the larger backing sheet has thoroughly set. It won’t matter if the backing
sheet doesn’t completely touch all of the pipe ends — as long as the
sheet is attached to enough of them to stay in place, the files won’t slip
through.
Once the cement has cured, about 24 hours, you will now have the pleasure of
organizing all your files. 
I found that a small piece of 1/4" thick wood placed under the front edge
gave my file file a slight tip backward, which prevents files from slipping out.
An alternative to using acrylic sheet to back the file file is to build a wooden
container, a simple box which just fits the outside of the stacked pipes. If later
you want to add more rows or columns, though, it’s very easy if your file
is not enclosed. Just cement the extra pipes to each other, then cement the bundle
to the file file, and then cement a strip of acrylic to the back. After all, a
metalsmith can never have too many files!
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• PVC pipe — thin wall, 3/4" inside diameter, for needle files
(10' or more: length depends on how many needle files you want to house. One 10'
length will make enough slots for 20 5-1/4" needle files with handles attached.)
Note: if the handles on your needle files are thicker in diameter than
5/8", you might want to buy a larger inside diameter pipe. Take a file fitted
with a handle with you when you purchase the pipes.
• PVC pipe — thin wall, 1" inside diameter, for larger files
(10' or more: length depends on how many large files you want to house. One 10'
length will make enough slots for 15 6" files with handles attached.) Note:
if the handles on your larger files are thicker in diameter than 7/8", you
might want to buy a larger inside diameter pipe. Take a file fitted with a handle
with you when you purchase the pipes.
• PVC cement, 1/4 pint can with dauber attached to lid
• Acrylic sheet, 1/10" thick, for backing, about 1 square foot
• Jeweler’s saw frame with #2 or #3 blade
• Abrasive paper, 320-grit
• Newspaper to protect your bench or table |
For information
on supplies, please see the Annual Buyers'
Directory.
Always ask for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for any materials you buy,
which will give you reactivity, health hazard, and safe handling data. |
| Sara M. Sanford is a professional jeweler who has been
researching and experimenting with metalworking techniques for 28 years. She is
a founding member and past president of the Portland, Oregon-based Creative Metal
Arts Guild. |
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